In September 2017, the house of Guerlain clad some of their modern classics in gorgeous bee bottles that have recently also hit Spain’s perfume shelves. They caught my eye a few days ago and prompted me to revisit an old semi-favourite, the wonderfully edgy Insolence. I only like the edp concentration, by the way!
There is something about Guerlain perfumes that captures you even if you are not a fan of any particular one of them. I remember how the drydowns of both L’Instant and Insolence almost made me cry once; I kept the blotters on my night stand until the scent had completely evaporated. There is this indescribable, ethereal yet comforting quality that I cannot quite determine but that hooks me every time. Some call it light in a bottle. Some call it sexy. Others call it maternal. I honestly do not know what to call it. Here is a clue: if you ever wished Flower by Kenzo had less baby powder and more spine, this is something you might like.
Insolence opens with a blast of sour (cran)berries, possibly even lingonberries, immediately joined by a sting of cold iris, a giant cloud of violets, and some soft tonka. In this exact order. And this stuff is strong! The name is Insolence, after all! The violets are here to stay throughout the whole drydown. They are enormous, tamed only a little by something baby powder-like that lend the perfume some necessary coziness. Gradually the sting wears off and we are left with some candied violets and faint woods.
Due to its heavy sillage and nuclear longevity, Insolence is best worn in colder seasons. It makes a perfect choice for chilly winter days and evenings as it wraps its aura around you like a fluffy purple scarf. I said days AND evenings because I really think it works for both daytime and evening wear. It is strong, but in moderation can be pulled off as office-friendly because it is not that insolent in the end; it also works well for going out… maybe not in romantic occasions, though.
I have sampled it many times in different temperatures and have to admit that it actually also works in a hot summer! Probably thanks to the cranberry-iris combo which prevents it from becoming cloying or too heady. It is sour and fresh enough to put you through late summer Greece, as it happened to me this year, and for me Insolence will forever be tied to having a good time.
What has prevented me from buying a bottle is that I personally, contrary to the versatility I proclaimed it to have two paragraphs above, find Insolence hard to fit into my, erm, perfume profile. I just do not know where to wear this. It is so darn special. I am not on holiday in Greece all the time, you see! Insolence is a beautiful perfume with a strong character, youthful yet classy, ladylike but with a mischievous twinkle in the eye. A treasure to have in your collection if you want something a bit off kilter, something that is not like anything else you own. Plus, it is Guerlain quality – it lasts, and lasts, and lasts… If you are not a fan of the bee bottle better go and grab an old one while are still in stock!
Disclaimer: image 1 Amazon. Image 2 Makeup Savvy. Image 3 Smellsi.